Mercruiser GM V8 454 cid 7.4L 502 cid 8.2L Service ManualService Manual Application: Gen. VI Engines Sterndrive (MCM) Models: MCM 454 Mag MPI (Serial Number 0L010029 & Up), MCM 502 Mag MPI (Serial Number 0L017000 & Up). Inboard (MIE) Models: MIE 454 Mag MPI Horizon (Serial Number 0L002200 & Up), MIE 8.2L MPI (Serial Number 0L002450 & Up). L-29 Engines - Sterndrive (MCM) Model: MCM 7.4L MPI (Serial Number 0L010003 & Up).
Vortec engines are a terrific source of engine swap donors, and if you are it’s hard to beat. Junkyards and wreckers have plenty of trucks and vans to pluck a LM7, LQ9, LR4, or other GEN III GM based shortblock. Many times for under a thousand dollars the Vortec V8 you’ve wanted to swap into your chassis can easily become a reality.The problem of knowing what engine you have exactly can be difficult, one that our guide on how to identify your Vortec engine will solve. Knowing how to identify your Vortec engine can come in handy when you are trying to match transmissions, intake manifolds and your ECU or PCM to your engine. This can be especially important if you are trying to build a 50 state legal engine swap, like our Project 2JZ S14.
How To Change a LR4 Water Pump Confusion about VortecThe term of Vortec is one of the easiest terms to confuse in GM terminology, which is really saying something. This is primarily because of many trucks and vans in the mid 80s having the word VORTEC stamped somewhere on the intake manifold or piping. LS1 Sensor GuideThis is based on the TBI engines that preceded the GEN III shortblocks, which used cylinder heads known for a terminology known as swirl vane.
5.7 Vortec Engine Pictures
The use of this vane in the cylinder head maximized flow with a vane like machined stamp in the bowl under the intake valves. Designed for low end torque and decreased emissions, don’t confuse this with your 1996+ Vortec engine. These versatile Vortec engines came in basically everything that flew under the GMC banner that was a truck, suv or full size van. The ease in which you can locate these engines and cylinder heads can often complicate matters, which is why our how to identify your Vortec engine is here.
Casting part numbersNeedless to say if you have the casting part numbers on the cylinder head of your Vortec, this makes the job much easier. If you have sourced a complete engine, locating your casting numbers and should be an easy task. Early model Vortec cylinder heads use two different castings to comprise the primary part number of 125508060. How To Change a 4.3 liter GMC Sierra ThermostatThese heads are nearly identical but the castings numbers are 12558062 and 10239906.
Common Sense Book Art Williams Pdf Download >> Sense Book Art Williams Pdf DownloadBuy,Digital,Edition,Pushing,Up,People,$7.99,Pushing,Up,People,is,a,step-by-step,guide,to,the,people,management,concepts,behind,The,A.L.,I,have,spoken,with,several,of,their. Common sense book art williams pdf to word free. Nine little words that can change your life foreverAll you can do is all you can do! Art Williams shares the inspirational story of what it took to build a tiny “peanut” of a company into an industry giant. Read More Coach Book - Print. Art Williams shares the. Common Sense Book. Common Sense is a. Read a free sample or buy Common Sense by Art Williams. You can read this book with iBooks on your iPhone, iPad, iPod touch, or Mac. Common Sense (Illustrated) (Unique Classics) and over one million other books are available for Amazon Kindle. Common Sense: A Simple Plan for Financial Independence Paperback – October 3, 2013. Art Williams was a high school coach when he was introduced to the life insurance.
The differences from these Vortec cylinder heads is in the valve seats, and the 906 is found in the heavier vans and trucks. VIN NumbersAnother convenient way to identify your Vortec engine, a look at the 8th digit of your VIN number will easily identify what you have. T = 5.3L LM7. V= 4.8L LR4.
Z = 5.3L L59. U = LQ4. N = LQ9From 2002 onward these motors will come with Drive By Wire (DBW) and thus require reprogramming of your throttle either manually or by your local dealership. How To Change a GEN III GM Throttle BodyThe LQ9A popular choice for turbocharged or supercharged LS1 swap applications, this 6.0 liter is most desirable from 1999-2000 where the throttle is still cable actuated.
These GEN III engines have iron heads and should not be considered for use with a standard 4L60E automatic transmission. Budget LS Swap Engines Part 2The LQ9 came with aluminum heads after this point as well as increased compression thanks to flat top pistons. As a sidenote the smaller LQ4 also comes with the same 317 casting from GM, and if you are working with the LQ4, these pistons will be slightly flat.Have any questions about our how to identify your Vortec engine DIY Guide?
Leave them for us below!
. The Bayliner Owners Club is a gathering place for Bayliner Owners and prospective owners.
No matter what size or model of Bayliner Boat that you have or are contemplating, we have members here who have that same model and would enjoy discussing it in a friendly, welcoming environment.PLEASE HELP SUPPORT OUR SITEThe Bayliner Owners Club and its Decades of stored boating information is funded by you, the people that visit here. This funding comes from member donations, or through your clicking on advertisements.Joining the BOC is easy and free.If you join, you can choose to either contribute and not see any advertising, or you can choose not to contribute, and you will see the same advertising you are seeing right now.Thanks for visiting the Bayliner Owners Club!!Please do us a favor by clicking on, then spending a minute visiting our advertisers.Thanks!!!! With the extra bit of horsepower and fuel economy from the vortec engine with its throttle body injection and roller cam, I am thinking of replacing my current 5.7sbc with a 5.7vortec motor. BUT.is there a difference between the early vortec engines and the later ones? I have heard the early ones didnt use an ecm.
Where these roller cam motors?the vortec engine seems to be a bit taller, is it? Will it fit under the hatch of a 2556?how much of a nightmare is the wiring harness and ECM installation?does it have to be a special programmed ECM for a marine engine?I assume because the vortec is a sbc motor, the motor mounts are the same, but are there any other problems I may encounter that is out of the norm?or, from those that have done the full engine installation, would it be recommended to just install a set of vortec heads on my current perfectly running engine?.
How many hours on your motor and what is the horsepower?On my 2252 I swapped in a 330hp Michigan motorz vortec with edelbrock carb. Hardest part was adding electric circuit for fuel pump. It was easy!i gained over 10mph and went from 1mpg to 2 mpg.But, the prior motor was probably a truck motor that someone swapped in. It was 2 barrel, and wrong power band.What im saying is I went from a crappy engine to a real good one and had real good results.I don't think you'll have such good results as your engine sounds decent.
I don't think just swapping heads will be that noticeable. Try thinking of it on a return on investment basis. If your plan is to keep the boat for a long time, you feel it’s a bit underpowered and you use the heck out of it, then it can make sense to do a total package.
I repowered our 1980 2950 Encounter Sunbridge in 2001 after one of the original 470’s cracked a block with new 205hp 4.3’s and counter rotating Alphas. It completely changed the boat. My cruise speed increased and fuel burn decreased. We sold the boat in 2017 after putting 1000 hours on them. I did the installation myself and even though I was converting from a four cylinder to a v6, it wasn’t difficult. It wasn’t plug and play, we built a new harness going from the pigtail to the dash, it was a matter of finding the right color, gauge wire and connectors.
Use tinned wire and marine shrink/glue connectors. Btw, the new ABYC standard for negative wire is yellow.I’m not familiar with the newer versions, but the 01’s were roller cam and the only fuel injection then was throttle body injection so I considered it a why bother. Now, with the true fi, it would be my preferred configuration. I’m sure the cam has changed and everything would be marine specific because of the way the engine operates, constantly under load not having any “downhill” time.
Im not sure of the hours on my current motor, but due to a glitch of my own doing, i had to replace one piston, and while i had it apart I replaced the rings on all pistons. The engine is a custom rebuild, installed in 2011, but it does NOT have the preferred pistons in it. You will need a Vortec intake manifold, and if you have a 4bbl Quadrajet, you will need to convert it to an electric choke because the Vortec style manifold does not use an exhaust crossover that was used to heat the thermostatic spring for the choke to open it as the engine warms up. There are electric conversions for the Q-Jet carb but you can also upgrade to the Edelbrock (if it will clear the Cobra shift linkage on the starboard side, I know it does not on the V6 models) or a Holley 4bbl, both come with electric chokes.While Throttle body injection will start easier than a carb engine and run smoother cold, it will not necessarily produce more power than a well set up carb. The wiring is more complex and you need to use an ECM and the needed sensors. This I think will exceed the cost of a brand new 4bbl carb which will work great on that engine.
The Edelbrock is a well known and reasonably priced way to go, the Holley is a bit more expensive, but you can buy them already calibrated for different engine sizes, thereby eliminating some guess work.If the engine you have now has good compression, does not burn oil and is not making concerning noises, I'd probably run it until you need to replace it in which case I'd go with a long block Vortec replacement. While the Vortec heads do add power, its a lot to pay for maybe 20-30 hp.
I'd keep the carb vs MPI. I think the carb is far simpler in terms of installation. Also keep in mind that if you change the original points distributor, the ESA that lowers the idle speed for shifting to neutral will not work, you will need to buy a new ESA that works with electronic ignition or wire it like a Merc. If the points distributor is in good shape I'd just keep using it.
Points are simple, and do not have any electronic mystery boxes that can be hard to find if they fail on a 30 year old boat. You may already have a roller cam, my '88 non-Vortec 4.3 for sure has one.
I have read that they converted over in the '87-88 time frame but this could vary depending on the stock of engines on hand. I replaced my non-vortec head with vortecs and it worked out great. As they said above, you'll need a new intake. But any SBC, regardless of year, that uses Vortec heads, will require an external coolant bypass linefrom the intake manifold to the 5/8' hose nipple on the water pump (passenger’s side). Suggested routing is from the 3/8 NPSF boss on intake manifold to the water pump.
The Vortec does not have that hole/passageway so the external bypass is required. I neglected to do this and the engine would overheat as the coolant wasn't circulating properly. Once I added the bypass it worked like a charm! I replaced my non-vortec head with vortecs and it worked out great. As they said above, you'll need a new intake.
But any SBC, regardless of year, that uses Vortec heads, will require an external coolant bypass linefrom the intake manifold to the 5/8' hose nipple on the water pump (passenger’s side). Suggested routing is from the 3/8 NPSF boss on intake manifold to the water pump. The Vortec does not have that hole/passageway so the external bypass is required.
I neglected to do this and the engine would overheat as the coolant wasn't circulating properly. Once I added the bypass it worked like a charm!Im confused by this. What hole/passageway are you referring to? The cooling jacket in a Vortec head is the same as the cooling jacket in the non Vortec head, same with the intake manifolds. The only real difference that I'm aware of between the two is in the improved combustion chamber design, intake runner design and the lack of the exhaust crossover on the Vortec head. I finally got in touch with a performance boat builder that has done many vortec conversions. Both the early TBI vortecs and the later EFI models.
I learned a lot talking to him.his recommendations are nearly parallel to what I have received here so far, but I know they are only opinions.his input and recommendations about the vortec engine are as follows.stay away from the TBI set up and get a carb style manifold, as a good carb tuned properly will give better performance AND better fuel economy in a boat.the vortec EFI is more fuel efficient than the carb, but the carb will still noticeably out-perform it.vortec heads on a regular block adds about 20-30hp, and the proper pistons can give another 12-15hp when used with vortec heads. The roller cam block can add another 30% gain over just heads and pistons.a vortec block (roller cam), running a carb will deliver 60-80hp over the regular un-modified 5.7the installation of the carbed engine is quicker and a lot easier.the early vortec blocks are preferred, as they have a hole (capped) for a mechanical fuel pump. The later blocks did not have the option/hole for a mechanical pump, so an electric pump is necessary.its an easy conversion/swap for someone who knows how to remove and replace an engine.I can buy a running vortec 'core' engine for anywhere from $250 to $500, I can take my pick of several, TBI or EFI. So depending on the internal condition of the engine I choose, i will at the very least have a set of heads, (need to buy a carb style intake) and if the rest of the core is in reasonable condition, I will have something I can build on without a need to hurry, and still not miss any of the season while running my current engine.My current engine is the 260hp version, and already has an electronic ignition distributor, so I can use it in the vortec block.with this information, I plan to move forward with my 'project'.
The angle of the bolts is what's different, the non-vortec bolts go in at an angle to the intake but square to the head surface, whereas on the vortec, the bolts go in square to the intake but at an angle to the heads.There is an in between type early Vortec head 'swirl port head'. All 12 bolt holes at the intake manifold interface are present but the center four bolts thread in at a different angle than the rest.
Download 5.7 Vortec Engine Manual Free Software Pdf
Later to current style Vortec head uses only eight bolts at the intake manifold interface (no center bolts), and as you say they thread in vertically instead of square to the head.